Published in Gravure #4
Interview by Alex Freund
Portrait Illustration by Jenny Mortsell • Jed Root
Photography by Spencer Higgins • Jed Root

GRAVURE: You’re both Dutch and are based in Amsterdam. How do you feel being based outside the Paris-Milan-New York axis has affected your work?

V&R: It’s quiet! Being outside allows us a kind of freedom to step outside of fashion and concentrate on our work. It’s easier to see things from the outside.

GRAVURE: How does this affect how you approach your work?

V&R: We work upside down!

GRAVURE: How so? Your collections are always very conceptual, but how do you approach a fragrance project? Can a smell be conceptual?

V&R: We think so. We always start with a word. With our fragrances, we can’t smell it until we know the word, so the idea is very important.

…

GRAVURE: There’s such a strong history and a design sensibility unique to the Netherlands – how does that play into your work? Do you feel burdened by it? Liberated by it?

V&R: Well, the most important thing is be authentic and to have a point of view… to be original. However, being here does allow us to see things differently and it helps us adapt to different locations. In the end, what is most important is to be unique and to have original ideas. We travel a lot so it helps us to be based here.

GRAVURE: It shows in your work – for instance, you show in Paris and the Eau Mega advertising shows the New York skyline. Do you approach your projects with a specific location in mind?

V&R: We don’t have a specific location in mind but we do feel energized when we come to New York.

GRAVURE: Do you think the energy in New York has changed in recent years?

V&R: Yes! Very much. But some things are constant.

GRAVURE: Like what?

V&R: New York is about being aspirational and larger than life, which are two qualities that we admire in the American character.

GRAVURE: Raquel [Zimmerman] is definitely “larger than life” in that ad – in comic books, New York is always the city filled with super heroes.

V&R: [Laughs] Yes. It seems that way!
GRAVURE: Coming back to the subject of ideas, design, and originality, what is the most innovative thing you’ve seen in fashion lately?

V&R: We have been finding the internet and fashion websites increasingly interesting.

GRAVURE: How do you see the internet fitting into fashion?

V&R: The internet also takes away some of the mystery, which is sad. But on the other hand, it is a new reality and it has created a lot of opportunity. It’s definitely changing things a lot. You can be anywhere now.

GRAVURE: Your first fragrance was a bottle that didn’t open. It was all brand and made a statement about fashion branding. Has your point of view changed at all since you started?

V&R: Not really. It’s always a balance of form and content. We think design and branding can have meaning of its own – the bottle is its own content.

GRAVURE: Very meta! Do you think branding leads content or vice versa?

V&R: They’re both important. There has to be a balance.

…

GRAVURE: You’ve previously described your fragrance, Flowerbomb, as “romantic, but volatile” and “glamour, but with rage”. How do you describe Eau Mega?

V&R: Flowerbomb is a much stronger, more powerful scent, while Eau Mega is sweeter and more uplifting and more complex. People need complexity. Especially now…

GRAVURE: Given the state of the world, do you think people need something a bit uplifting?

V&R: Yes. Definitely. People need a bit of fantasy, always.

GRAVURE: Is the need more urgent now with all the “reality” people are facing right now – the economy, war, and so on?

V&R: Well, we always need to dream. We think it’s especially important with the current crisis. We think it comes through in our shows – there is a reality that we’re questioning.

We always have to question what we’re presented.

Published in Gravure #3 / FW09
Photos • Jenny Gage & Tom Betterton
Fashion • Lisa Mosko
Casting • Laine Rosenberg
Models • Patricia Schmid, Tiiu Kuik, Sydonie Herrera / Marilyn Model Mgt.
Creative Direction • Alex Freund / Gravure Projects

Special thanks • Michael Ross, Shawn Brydges

……….

1.
Cotton Panties • Wolford
Patent Leather Platform Pumps • Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
Mesh Wrapped Gold Chain, Coins & Tassels Neclace • Subversive Jewelry

2.
Sheer Slip Skirt • Tom Scott
Global Ocular Necklace • Subversive Jewelry

3.
Felt Hat • Patricia Underwood

4.
T-Strap Leather Shoes • Fendi
Leather Ankle Boots • Cesare Paciotti for Ohne Titel

5.
Vintage Fishnet Stockings • Stylist’s Own

6.
Silk/Cotton Sleeveless Tuxedo • Jolibe
Lace Panties • Stella McCartney
Spiky Patent Leather Shoes • Christian Louboutin

7.
Vintage Silk Hermes Scarf • Stylist’s Own
Cotton Sofia Dress • Thakoon
Silk Chiffon Blouse • Vicente Villarin
Cashmere Pointelle Knit Briefs • Kiki de Montparnasse

8.
Silk Crepe de Cine Panty • Passionbait
Wool Coat & Leather Platform Pumps • Louis Vuitton

9.
Sheer Black Sweater (Worn Backwards) • Tom Scott
Black Thong • Wolford

10.
Vintage Wool Knit Stockings • Stylist’s Own
Leather Ankle Boot • Cesare Paciotti for Ohne Titel

11.
Lace Dress & Skirt • Prada

12.
Leather Ankle Boot • Cesare Paciotti for Ohne Titel

ACNE
AW10
Director • Andreas Larsson
Models • Emilia Nilsson / Stockholmsgruppen, Max A / Stockholmsgruppen, Zebylon / Marion Vain

Photos • Noam Griegst
Fashion • Tekla Knaust / New Blood Agency
Makeup • Nina Belkhir / Linkdetails
Makeup • Andre Cueto-Saavedera / Mikas
Model • Delphine Francois Keller / Elite Paris

……….

1.
Fur • Quentin Veron
Bodysuit • Noir Illuminati
Necklace • Louis Vuitton
Corset • La Perla

2.
Dress • Rick Owens
Panties and bra • Wolford
Scarf • H&M

3.
Fur • Quentin Veron
Panties • Wolford
Bra and Corset • La Perla

4.
Fur • Alexandre Vautier Couture
Bra • Wolford
Scarf • H&M

5.
Bodysuit • Alexandre Vautier
Scarf • H&M

6.
Fur • Alexandre Vautier Couture
Bra • Wolford
Skirt • Alexandre Vautier
Scarf • H&M

7.
Coat • Louis Vuitton
Shirt • Dior Hommes
Pants • Ida Sjostet
Necklace • Louis Vuitton
Scarf • H&M

8.
Dress • Rick Owens
Panties and bra • Wolford
Scarf • H&M
Shoes • Alexandre Vautier

9.
Fur • Quentin Veron
Bodysuit • Noir Illuminate
Necklace • Louis Vuitton

KIKI

Director : Alex Freund
Starring : Kiki • NY Models
Hair : Lisa Raquel • See Mgt.
Makeup : Greg Vaughan • L’Atelier
Casting : Laine Rosenberg

MAK

Director : Alex Freund
Starring : Mak • IMG
Hair : Lisa Raquel • See Mgt.
Makeup : Greg Vaughan • L’Atelier
Casting : Laine Rosenberg

CONSUMED

A Dorian Orange production:
Written and Directed by Bradley Young
Starring: Lydia Hearst
Producer: Nathanial Ruhlman
Styling: Deborah Afshani @ Marek and Associates
Director of Photography: Travis Manning
Editor: Thomas Hoppe
Set Design: Peter Mayer
Music: “St. Louis Blues” performed by Luke Trumble
Design Director: Christian Palma
Color: Travis Manning
Casting: ML McCarthy and Suze Lee for Urban Productions Casting
Make-up: Regina Harris @ See Management
Hair: Mitch Barry for Bryan Bantry Inc.
Assistant director and set photography: Vera Mulyani
1st photography assistant: Micah Stathis
2nd photography assistant: Boanerges Centeno
Fashion Assistants: Brandon Maxwell and Anatolli Smith
Body Double: Nikki B. @ Race Models
PA’s: Matt Dickinson, Flavia Prado.
Equipment: The Space Inc, Handheld Films Inc.
Art: ‘globe 1’ from “The wall,” a video series by Bradley Young
Special thanks: Nadine Johnson, Michael Tavini, Christopher Marich and the team at The Standard, NY and Ryan Brown @ Factory PR.

……….

1.
Dress • Zac Posen
Earrings • RJ Graziano
Shoes • Moschino
Bracelet • New York Vintage
Fur • J. Mendel
Ring • Lia Sophia
Hosiery • Wolford

2.
Robe • Jean Yu
Lingerie • Jean Yu
Hosiery • Wolford
Shoes • Alberta Ferretti
Pearl necklace • RJ Graziano
Ring • Lia Sophia
3.
Dress • Black and white Jean Yu
Underwear • Passion Bait
Diamond Stud Earrings • Cartier
Ring • Lia Sophia

4.
Dress • Black beaded/embroidered Alberta Ferretti
Underwear • Passion Bait
Necklace • New York Vintage
Ring • New York Vintage
Earrings • RJ Graziano
Stockings • Falke
Headband • Jennifer Behr
Shoes • Alberta Ferretti for Lydia and Moschino for lookalike

LYOKA

Director : Alex Freund • Gravure Projects
Hair : Lisa-Raquel • See Management
Makeup : Greg Vaughan • L’Atelier
Model : Lyoka • One Model Management
Casting : Laine Rosenberg

Special Thanks : 3rd Ward Studios

THE PHOTOGRAPH

Writer and  Director : Bradley Young
Co-director : Alex Freund
Starring : Jessica Joffe c/o Craig Lawrence • Ford
Producer : Nathaniel Ruhlman
Fashion Direction & Styling: Lisa Mosko
Director of Photography : Travis Manning
Design Director : Christian Palma
Editor : Thomas Hoppe
VFX : James Gunderson
Casting : ML McCathy and Suze Lee for Urban Productions Casting
Hair and Make up : Regina Harris
Music : “Skyscraper” by Julian Plenti*
Fashion Assistant : Emma Fernberger

Special Thanks to Selete Valazquez and Circle Line Sightseeing Cruises
Photograph courtesy of Jessica Joffe

* Available on the album Julian Plenti is…Skyscraper
Licensed Courtesy of Matador Records

……….

Fashion : Miu Miu

BUREAU OF THAUMATOLOGY

Director : Steve Cohen
Fashion Direction & Styling: Lisa Mosko
Art Direction, Stop Motion Animation & Prop Styling : Lisa Gwilliam
Editor : Wilson Van Law / Post Office Media
Music : Dagomba Music, courtesy of Mandara Music
Fashion Assistant : Emma Fernberger

……….

Accessories :

Blackbird “Aviary” headband • Leah C.
Brown leather studded shoe • Prada
“Moliere” book necklace •  Brian Crumley for VPL
Embroidered necklace • Marni
Tortoise sunglasses • Marc Jacobs
Crystal, Bead & Twine necklace • Subversive
Feather Clutch • Raven Kauffman
Black and nude lace glove • 3.1 Phillip Lim

Photos: Tiago Molinos
Fashion • Lisa Mosko
Hair • Staci Child at Cutler for Factory Downtown
Make up • Yuko Mizuno using Make Up For Ever at Rona Represents
Model • Andressa Fontana at Supreme
Fashion Assistant • Emma Fernberger
Retouching • Leo Vas

……….

1. Black silk tunic, black embroidered metal skirt, spike and chain silver brooch worn as necklace • Ohne Titel. Black leather thigh-high boots with chain and horn detail • Cesare Paciotti for Ohne Titel
2. Grey wool and black nylon knotted dress and necklace • Lauren Kovin. Black leather ankle boots with silver balls at ankles • Marc Jacobs. Black leggings • stylist’s own
3. Black wool boucle plaid harem pants • Matohu, Mirrored and wool ball necklace • VPL. Black turtleneck top • Shelly Steffee. Black leather ankle boots with silver balls at ankles • Marc Jacobs.
4. Black wool micro herringbone jumpsuit • Zero + Maria Cornejo.
5. Black strapless dress • Acne. Cardboard, metal, chain, and glass necklace • VPL.
6. Burnished silver bubble textured cocoon coat • Kai Kühne. Black leather thigh-high boots • Marc Jacobs. Black silk tunic worn under coat • Ohne Titel. Black leggings • stylist’s own.
7. Black skirt suit with attached belt at waist • Dolce & Gabbana. Black leather ankle boots with silver balls at ankles • Marc Jacobs. Leggings • stylist’s own.
8. Pistachio microfiber turtleneck dress and black Swarovski fused felt dress • Julian Louie. Aubergine snake skin and black suede open toes platform stilettos • Nicholas Kirkwood.
9. Violet silk satin bolero and strapless minidress • Paule Ka. Black leggings • stylist’s own.
10. Mustard yellow velvet bandage minidress with metal beading at seams • Marc Jacaobs.
11. Short black wool jumper with attached blazer • Shelly Steffee. Black leather ankle boots with silver balls at ankles • Marc Jacobs. Leggings • stylist’s own.
12. Grey silk jacquard geometric print gown, red and yellow silk jacquard geometric print jacket • Jonathan Saunders. Black leather ankle boots with silver balls at ankles • Marc Jacobs